A Taste of Twin Farms

In Vermont, Sinclair Lewis’ former farm is now a luxe culinary escape.


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About 15 minutes after arriving at Twin Farms in Barnard, VT, it became clear that every glowing word I’d read about these 300 acres of emerald Vermont landscape would fall woefully short of describing what it’s like to stay here. Our “cottage” was 2,200 sq ft of decadent relaxation, from the great room, with its wood-burning fireplace, cathedral window, and Hockney canvas casually hung on the wall, to the oversize copper soaking tub, which can hold the heat of your bath for hours, to the private stone porch, with its gurgling hot tub. Our personal items were already laid out, as if we were visiting a vacation home we’d owned for years.

That attention to detail is what makes a stay at this all-inclusive resort so special. There’s no request too small or inconsequential, whether it’s freshly squeezed juice with your fruit-studded soufflé pancakes, a lunch of cold poached lobster and Champagne waiting for you beside Copper Pond after a long hike, or grilled cheese and warm chocolate chip cookies (the two most-requested items, after Champagne, of course) in your room, by the fire, on a rain-soaked day.

When you’re ready for dinner, make your way across the covered bridge for Chef Nathan Rich’s daily-changing tasting menu. As you sip a cocktail on the porch, the kitchen might send out a bowl of house-made sweet-onion potato chips and a pair of oysters with red-pepper caviar and chive blossoms. After, you might sit down to an aerated sunchoke soup with chili oil and black-garlic crumbs, 12-hour sous vide octopus, and seared local duck breast over melted leeks, each thoughtfully paired with a different wine from the cellar. For dessert: an elegant riff on s’mores, made with toasted meringue, chocolate mousse, and graham-cracker ice cream.

If something comes out of the kitchen that doesn’t strike your fancy (unlikely, since all guests complete a questionnaire about their dietary preferences before arrival), it’s whisked away and replaced. Then, it’s added to your file, so you’ll never have to see it again, in case you decide to return for another visit. And trust me, you’ll want to. Cottages start at $1,700/night

Inside Tip: To get the true locavore experience, ask Guest Services to set up a tour of local farms, or visit the onsite gardens, chicken coops, and apiaries, then make time for one of the frequent expert-led tastings of wines and Vermont cheeses

 

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