A knock on an unassuming, unmarked door on the side of the City Beer Hall building in Albany brings out a hostess. Name? You’re on the list? Welcome. And in you go — to 1920s Albany. A sassy, flapper-ish cocktail waitress flirts with the customers. A lively, old-timey jazz combo holds forth. Three truly gifted mixologists hand-craft authentic Depression-era cocktails or bespoke libations out of rare spirits, mixers, and bitters. Looking for characters out of a William Kennedy novel? You’ll find them here, along with hipsters, dandies, and modern imbibers looking for something unusual. The Capital City is decidedly short on “cool,” but co-owner Kenny Schachter, who also co-owns the City Beer Hall and Webster Hall in New York, thinks Albany is ready to support a place like this. “At least I hope so,” he says. Us too.