Liberty Public House Restaurant Review in Rhinebeck: American Comfort Food and Dining in Dutchess County
Celebrating the past: An old-time setting matches the American comfort fare at Liberty Public House in Rhinebeck
Pledge allegiance: Rhinebeck’s patriotic pub salutes Uncle Sam
Photographs by Jennifer May
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The Starr Institute in Rhinebeck has housed several restaurants over the years, including a Mexican joint and an American bistro aptly named Starr Place, which closed a couple of years ago. It’s a stately, 1860 Gothic Revival building, with high ceilings and handsome woodwork and trim. In its newest incarnation as Liberty Public House, it’s billed as “a renaissance tavern” — not a fancy-pants gastropub or a bar serving American eats, but a welcoming spot where you can sup and imbibe in surroundings that evoke the hostelries of 150 years ago, only with electricity.
Patricia Panarella, who serves as hostess, launched Liberty late last year with her son, Sergia Rebraca. Panarella is also the innkeeper of the sumptuously done-up Belvedere Mansion in Staatsburg. (Her husband’s contribution to Rhinebeck’s dining scene is the Provencal-style Arielle on Market Street, as well as the specialty food store, Tavola Rustica.) With this newest endeavor, Panarella and Rebraca — who trained in textile and surface design — have gone to town, celebrating Americana in spades.
The menu, created by executive chef Roberto Mosconi (who is also behind the food at Arielle), offers old-fashioned comfort fare, but with today’s more health-conscious Americans in mind. You’ll find potato pancakes, oyster po’boys, and grilled catfish tacos for starters, with spicy garlic shrimp on hominy grits, short ribs, and fettuccini Alfredo among the mix of mains. I’m not sure that Peruvian-spiced rock hen with yellow rice and beans was being dished up in taverns in the 1800s, but why nitpick? The version we saw being ferried to a neighboring table looked pretty tasty, and so did the meatloaf and mashed potatoes.
Raise the flag: Liberty’s dining room decked out in patriotic glory
I’m a sucker for that pubby vibe, so I love the look of the bar room with its high-backed green wooden booths and wainscot. Vintage photographs, old engravings, kerosene lanterns and a slew of memorabilia fill the space, so there’s no shortage of visual stimulation. Rebraca moved the bar, which used to face an interior wall, to a space between two windows, where it fits perfectly. “That happened so often when we were building the place, it was serendipitous,” he remarks. Bar stools are covered in a vintage horse blanket; one features leftover snippets pieced together. (“We call that the lucky stool,” Rebraca says.)
There’s a similar profusion in the dining room, where a huge, 48-star flag covers one wall, and smaller ones nod at it from around the room. Blue and white jars, white ironstone, and a lush arrangement of blue hydrangeas sit on a farm table in the middle of the space. Red leather banquettes, red covers on the chair backs, and dark blue napkins keep the patriotic color scheme going. Federal-style mirrors, engravings of Civil War scenes, stuffed birds, and horns and antlers of all kinds cover the walls. Those at a loss for conversation can play guess the animal.
In fair weather, you can eat on the porch or in the garden — where a 23-foot sailboat, nailed to the patio, serves as a bar and the decorative touches lean toward seafaring. There’s live music and dancing on weekends in the speakeasy-style lounge downstairs. If you can’t find a spot to match your mood here, you’re in a very bad mood.
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