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Best of Hudson Valley 2010

By Melissa Esposito, Jessica Friedlander, Lynn Hazlewood, David Levine, Dale McKnight, Greg Olear, and Polly Sparling Published September 13, 2010 at 05:27 PM

Ciao bella: Pizza from La Bella in New Paltz looks good enough to eat right off the screen

Photograph by Teresa Horgan

(page 1 of 6)

Food & Drink	Health & Beauty	People
Fun	Kids & Pets	Shopping

Food & Drink

Crêpes
Le Gamin Country Café
Hudson
You’ll swoon “Ooh la la” over the menu at this tiny slice of Paris in the Catskills. French restaurateur Robert Arbor first opened a café in Manhattan’s Soho in the ’90s. Lucky for Valleyites, he expanded north (you might also spot Le Gamin’s nifty mobile food truck, which serves an abbreviated version of their café menu, including crêpes, sandwiches, and salads). As for those crêpes, they’re “formidable!” Choose from among goat cheese, leek, chicken, or ratatouille. On the sweet side, Le Gamin also offers mouthwatering classic butter/sugar crêpes; or opt for lemon or fresh-fruit fillings. It’s the joie de vivre! • 518-828-2885; www.legamin.com

Chunky Cookie
Lisa’s Cookie Shop
Warwick
Lisa Ciriello left a corporate job in Manhattan to follow her bliss: opening a bakery where she could duplicate the baked goods that reminded her of yummy edibles from her childhood. “I have a passion for baking and a true desire to offer my customers memories of the past,” says Ciriello. Her Kitchen Sink cookie honors her aunt Bernadette, who loved to bake and would toss unexpected pantry leftovers into her cookie batter. Ciriello’s version includes coconut, cranberry, macadamia nuts, and chocolate chunks. (These sweets gained fame when this year’s Daytime Emmy Awards ordered 1,000-plus of the munchies, which Ciriello shipped to Las Vegas.) And when it comes to chocolate chip cookies, Ciriello’s buttery, chock-full-of-chocolate recipe is “inspired by my quest for the ultimate take on this classic,” she says. If you’re planning to stop by the shop, become a Facebook friend, or follow it on Twitter — Ciriello will alert you when a new batch of tasty treats comes out of the oven. Now that’s service! • 845-987-2167; www.lisascookieshop.com

» Read our feature story about Lisa’s Cookie Shop, “Happiness in a Bag,” here

Chocolate Brioche
Tivoli Bread & Baking Company
Tivoli
This cute takeout bakery draws locals and weekenders alike, and it might seem like delicious torture to choose between its melt-in-your-mouth sticky buns, croissants, lemon pound cake, muffins, and other items. But chocolate-lovers and pastry mavens insist there’s really no problem deciding — they swear by the chocolate brioche, perfectly made by baker/owner Mike Gonnella. • 845-757-2253

Use of Lemons
Lemoncakes at Alternative Baker
Rosendale
When life gives you lemons, buy a lemon cake from Essel Hoenshell-Watson. He’s the alternative baker behind Alternative Baker, Rosendale’s artisanal storefront bakery. Hoenshell-Watson learned the art of handmade desserts and breads from his grandmother and mother, and honed his craft in the pastry program at the CIA. His signature lemon cakes are baked in old-school fluted molds using a Depression-era recipe, which includes all-natural butter, fresh whole eggs, pure lemon juice, and fresh buttermilk. The result: a soft, velvety interior; a crisp but delicate shell; and a taste that’s like a pastry version of lemonade. • 845-658-3355; www.lemoncakes.com

Healthy Hangout
The Rosendale Café
Rosendale
Is it a vegetarian restaurant? Is it a swingin’ nightclub? Hey — it’s both. The four-star food features such vegetarian delights as Cuban Mojo Seitan and Indonesian Tempeh and Veggies, along with salads, homemade desserts, organic coffees, wine, and three microbrews on tap. The music side has been likened to Manhattan’s Knitting Factory, with weekend concerts showcasing local and international singer-songwriters and jazz, blues, world, and experimental artists. This combination of good food, good music, and a welcoming, no-worries atmosphere has made the café a destination for locals, out-of-town visitors, and anyone who happens to be passing through. • 845-658-9048; www.rosendalecafe.com

City-style Sushi
Momiji Japanese Restaurant
Stone Ridge, Rhinebeck
While the Stone Ridge outpost of this popular Japanese restaurant has something of a country atmosphere, the Rhinebeck location — with its indoor waterfall, stone floors, and extensive use of glass throughout — has a true urban feel. Boasting four hibachi tables and a sushi bar, the Rhinebeck spot also offers an expanded menu that features more Asian fusion cuisine. • Stone Ridge, 845-687-2110; Rhinebeck, 845-876-5555

Alternative to a Big Mac
Poppy’s Burgers & Fries
Beacon
Sure, the interior of this storefront eatery is just a half-step up from your local Mickey D’s. But the similarity ends there. Made with 100-percent organic, grass-fed beef — supplied by Kiernan Farms in Gardiner — Paul “Poppy” Yeaple’s burgers are juicy, flavorful, and taste the way a burger should — like real food. (The fries are to die for, too.) Not a carnivore? Try their bean-based veggie burger, topped with jalapeno aïoli. Trust us, you’ll never go back to a chain burger joint again. • 845-765-2121; www.poppyburger.com

Modern Malt Shop
All Shook Up Cafe & Juice Bar
Poughkeepsie
This corner eatery near Vassar College looks about as retro as you can get — checkerboard floor, stainless steel bar stools, and pictures of ’50s icons (Marilyn, Elvis, Fats Domino) on the walls. But the menu is decidedly 21st century: the all-fruit smoothies are sweetened with agave nectar (no sugar here), and their meal replacement shakes are both low-glycemic and low-cal. Bacon and other meats are antibiotic- and hormone-free; many of their cheeses come from the grass-fed animals at nearby Sprout Creek Farm. • 845-485-1955; www.allshookup44.com

Dessert Soufflé
The Arch
Brewster
Let’s face it: Finding a local restaurant that offers a dessert soufflé is not that easy. And — as anyone who’s tried to make one at home can attest — getting the perfectly risen confection from oven to table without having it collapse is no mean feat. But George Seitz, chef/owner at this Putnam County landmark restaurant, has got it down pat. His dinner menu offers not one, but four different dessert soufflés: chocolate, raspberry, toasted coconut, and Grand Marnier. Any one of them sounds the perfect end note to a meal of Seitz’s eclectic-French cuisine. • 845-279-5011; www.archrestaurant.com

Blue Cheese
Ewe’s Blue from Old Chatham Sheepherding Co.
Old Chatham
Fans flock to buy hand-crafted sheep-milk cheeses from Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, where more than 1,000 woolly critters graze contentedly in the rolling hills of the upper Valley. The family-run business’s artisanal Ewe’s Blue cheese — farm-made, creamy, Roquefort-style — draws raves: Wine & Spirits judged it tops among American cheeses in wine pairings. The farm’s other cheeses, including the award-winning Hudson Valley Camembert Square, are super palate-pleasers, too. Shop online, or stop by the farm’s 24/7 self-serve cheese store. • 888-743-3760; www.blacksheepcheese.com

Popovers
Hudson’s Ribs & Fish
Fishkill
With their fall-off-the-bone ribs and fresh fish delivered daily, this very popular Route 9 restaurant already has plenty to recommend it. But their signature popovers are really worth writing home about. A light and airy alternative to the bread baskets most eateries offer, these just-baked beauties come to the table hot from the oven, along with whipped strawberry butter for spreading. It’s like having dessert before the meal. • 845-297-5002; www.hudsonsribsandfish.com

Gluten-free Pasta
Rock Da Pasta
New Paltz
This one-of-a-kind Main Street joint invites you to “rock out while they get the pasta out.” Their gluten-free pasta dishes pay tribute to jukebox heroes; the menu includes David Bowtie Seafood Alfredo, Peter Frampi Scampi, and Stevie Ray-violi, to name a few. A variety of dishes are also vegan-friendly. And don’t forget to try a James Brownie for dessert. • 845-255-1144; www.rockdapasta.com

Gluten-free Baked Goods
Jenny Teague of Soul Dog
Poughkeepsie
Cookies, cupcakes, muffins, coffee cakes: These are just a few of the flavorful desserts baked by Soul Dog co-owner Jenny Teague, many of which are gluten-free or vegan-friendly. And her fresh-baked breads (also without gluten) can be found at locations throughout the Valley, including Nature’s Pantry in Fishkill, Rhinebeck Health Foods, and Merona’s Market in Millerton, to name a few. Although the eatery has previously won a BOHV award for its tasty hot dogs loaded with a creative variety of toppings, these yummy but health-conscious treats should not be overlooked. • 845-454-3254; www.souldog.biz

Portuguese Restaurant
Quinta Steakhouse
Pearl River
Brothers Ricardo and Armando Cerdeira run this six-year-old steakhouse, which features dry-aged Prime and Choice steaks. But the menu also includes traditional specialties from the brothers’ Portuguese homeland, including caldo verde (potato and kale soup with chouriço, a type of Portuguese sausage), mariscada (shellfish stew), and carne alentejana (pork loin with clams and fried potatoes). And they’ve got a fine selection of Portuguese wines, too. • 845-735-5565; www.quintasteakhouse.com

Restaurant Redo
Le Chambord Restaurant & Inn
Hopewell Junction
Now in its 25th year, this stalwart of the Dutchess County dining scene is housed in an 1863 stone mansion set on 10 acres (making it a popular choice for wedding receptions). The American Continental menu features favorite dishes like pistachio-crusted rack of lamb and rainbow trout with white wine and capers; this year, chef/owner Roy Benich updated the bill of fare by adding a selection of tapas items. Diners can now enjoy cheese empanadas, garlic shrimp, oysters casino, and other small plates from 4-10 p.m. on weekdays. • 845-221-1941; www.lechambord.com

Baseball-lovin’ Restaurant (south)
The Stadium
Garrison
Are you the type of hardcore baseball fan who still gets choked up when Kevin Costner’s character gets to play catch with the ghost of his dear old dad in Field of Dreams? Then you’ll love this place, where you can dine among relics of baseball greats. Enjoy meaty dishes like an Angus burger or Bourbon-marinated steak — or keep it light with a salad or wrap — while you drool over items such as Mickey Mantle’s 1956 Triple Crown award, Babe Ruth’s 1934 New York Yankees contract, a Brooklyn Dodgers’ World Series ring, and Hall of Fame plaques, to name just a few. • 845-734-4000; www.stadiumbarrest.com

Baseball-lovin’ Restaurant (north)
Hudson Park Restaurant
Hudson
The dining area at this baseball-themed eatery makes you feel like you’re right in the clubhouse, with its wood-paneled walls displaying portraits of players in action. They serve classic stadium eats, including items named for each of your favorite New York teams: Try the Yankee Classic hot dog (with melted American cheese), the New York Metropolitan ’dog (with onion sauce, sauerkraut, and deli mustard), and the Hudson Valley Renegade chicken tenders. Or just hang and watch the game on the flat screen, snacking on peanuts and Cracker Jack. • 518-851-2228

Scallop Dish
Coquilles at the Postage Inn
Tillson
These tasty little fruits of the sea are prepared in a rich, sherry-and-shallot cream sauce and served alongside rice and veggies. Made to perfection — we’ve never had an overcooked, rubbery one in the bunch — the flavor of the tender scallops is nicely complemented by the thick-but-not-too-heavy sauce. When paired with a dry white wine, c’est magnifique! • 845-658-3434; www.thepostageinn.com

Latin Night Out
Coquito Fine Dining
Warwick
Every Latin night out should involve music, and at this Spanish-influenced restaurant, you can fill your evening with salsa, merengue, or cool jazz. Then take your pick of the American and Puerto Rican menu options, including mofongo al pilon (mashed green plantains with beef, pork, or chicken), octopus salad (octopus tossed with peppers, onions, sofrito, and greens), and paella. Every Tuesday is singles’ night, Wednesday is ladies’ night, and Thursday evenings are for the fellas, all with drink specials. • 845-544-2790; www.coquitony.com

Selection of Italian Beers
The Villa Pasta & Grille
Lagrangeville
Italy may be known for its distinctive wines, but the country’s many breweries ought not to be ignored. This Italian restaurant recognizes that lesser-known fact and sells a selection of Italy’s finer bottled brews. Take your pick from the crisp Peroni; the double-malted Moretti La Rossa, with its caramized malt flavor; or the Tappeto Volante, a fine blonde lager. • 877-341-2494; www.thevillapastaandgrille.com

Fruit Brandy and Liqueurs
Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery
Warwick
There’s lots of fruity fun going on at this Hudson Valley institution — and the pear remains front and center of it all. The delightful Pear Brandy won Double Gold at a big international competition last year, and we’ve been fans of the oak-finished Bartlett Pear liqueur since its 2007 debut. Apple, sour cherry, and black currant are also turned into luscious libations. But come and see for yourself: Take in an orchard and garden tour, listen to music, pick pears and apples (in August/early September), and stop by the bistro. Life is just peachy in this part of Orange County. • 845-258-4858; www.wvwinery.com

Whiskey
Tuthilltown Spirits Distillery
Gardiner
It’s been a big year for Tuthilltown Spirits. This small-batch distillery was named Craft Distiller of the Year by the American Distillers’ Institute. And last spring, it began a partnership with William Grant & Sons, makers of Grant’s Scotch and single malts Glenfiddich and the Balvenie. Grant purchased the mom-and-pop distillery’s Hudson Whiskey brand for worldwide distribution and contracted Tuthilltown to produce it. It’s no wonder Tuthilltown has legions of loyal regional — and soon-to-be global — fans: 90 percent of the ingredients in its products come from local or regional sources. Valley apples, for instance, are distilled into its vodka; the new line of Tuthilltown “white” whiskey comes from heirloom corn grown on nearby farms. Cheers! • 845-633-8734; www.tuthilltown.com

Place to Pair Wine and Food
Artisan Wine Shop
Beacon
Make your next dinner party a hit. Not only does this Dutchess County shop sell an array of divine wines and affordable spirits, but they also offer pairing classes to share what food goes best with your vintage selections. • 845-440-6923; www.artisanwineshop.com

Wedding Cakes
McKinney & Doyle Fine Foods Café and The Corner Bakery
Pawling
There are a multitude of choices when it comes to picking that special cake for your big day, but this eatery’s sumptuous selection of fine baked goods with sweet, light, or chocolaty fillings really takes the... well, you know. Best known for their brunch and other bakery items, McKinney & Doyle can also become your one-stop shop to cater your wedding: they’ll ensure you and your guests are taken care of by providing tents, china, glassware, restrooms, and a waitstaff that prepares and cleans up. • Bakery, 845-855-3707; café, 845-855-3875; www.mckinneyanddoyle.com

Captions: Ciao bella Pizza from La Bella in New Paltz looks good enough to eat right off the page

That’s Italian A Rossi’s Deli sandwich with red peppers, fresh mozzarella, and pesto

Rise to the occasion A perfect dessert soufflé from the Arch in Brewster

Good and Gallic Le Canard Enchainé is the choice for real-deal French fare

Meal with a view The outdoor deck at Poughkeepsie’s Shadows on the Hudson

Best Restaurants By Cuisine

New Restaurant:
Crave Restaurant and Lounge
Poughkeepsie. 845-452-3501; www.craverestaurantandlounge.com
Want to know more about our readers’ choice for the hottest new restaurant? Our food writer raves about Crave in her Table Talk review.

American:
American Bounty at the Culinary Institute of America
Hyde Park. 845-471-6608;
www.ciachef.edu/restaurants/bounty

BBQ:
Max’s Memphis Barbeque
Red Hook. 845-758-6297; www.maxsbbq.com

Cajun:
Big Easy Bistro
Newburgh. 845-565-3939;
www.bigeasybistro.net

Chinese:
China Rose
Rhinecliff. 845-876-7442;
www.chinaroserestaurant.com

French (tie):
Le Petit Bistro
Rhinebeck. 845-876-7400; www.lepetitbistro.com
Le Canard Enchainé
Kingston. 845-339-2003;
www.le-canardenchainesrestaurant.com

German:
Mountain Brauhaus
Gardiner. 845-255-9766;
www.mountainbrauhaus.com

Greek:
Yanni Restaurant
New Paltz. 845-256-0988

Indian:
Tanjore
Fishkill. 845-896-6659;
www.tanjoreindiancuisine.com

Italian:
Cosimo’s Poughkeepsie
Poughkeepsie. 845-485-7172;
www.cosimospoughkeepsie.com

Japanese/Sushi:
Tokyo Sushi
New Paltz. 845-255-1335

Mediterranean:
Gigi Trattoria
Rhinebeck. 845-876-1007; www.gigitrattoria.com

Mexican/Latino:
La Puerta Azul
Salt Point. 845-677-2985; www.lapuertaazul.com

Seafood:
Gadaleto’s Seafood
New Paltz. 845-255-1717; www.gadaletos.com

Steakhouse:
Schlesinger’s Steak House
New Windsor. 845-561-1762;
www.schlesingerssteakhouse.com

Thai:
Sukhothai Restaurant
Beacon. 845-440-7731; www.sukhothainy.net

Vegetarian:
Karma Road
New Paltz. 845-255-1099; www.karmaroad.net

Best Restaurants By Atmosphere

Bistro:
Backyard Bistro
Montgomery
845-457-9901;
www.holbertscatering.com

Breakfast:
Main Street Bistro
New Paltz
845-255-7766;
www.mainstreetbistro.com

Brunch:
The Thayer Hotel
West Point
845-446-4731;
www.thethayerhotel.com

Cheap Eats:
Eduardo’s
Salisbury Mills
845-496-0141

Comfort Food/Diner:
The Eveready Diner
Hyde Park, 845-229-8100;
Brewster, 845-279-9009;
www.theevereadydiner.com

Dessert:
Apple Pie Bakery at the Culinary Institute of America
Hyde Park
845-471-6608;
www.ciachef.edu/restaurants/apbc

Late Night Dining:
Palace Diner
Poughkeepsie
845-473-1576;
www.thepalacediner.com

Lunch Spot:
Amedeo’s Pizzeria
Lagrangeville
845-454-4563

Place to Eat with a Date:
Twist
Hyde Park. 845-229-7094; www.letstwist.com

Place to Eat with a View/Romantic Dining:
Shadows on the Hudson
Poughkeepsie
845-486-9500;
www.shadowsonthehudson.com

Special Occasion Dining:
The Culinary Institute of America
Hyde Park
845-471-6608; www.ciachef.edu/restaurants

Waterside/Al Fresco Dining:
Torches on the Hudson
Newburgh. 845-568-0100;
www.torchesonthehudson.com

Best Restaurants By County

What’s the big news this year? Well, for the first time,the River Bank in Cornwall-on-Hudson debuts on the list as our readers’ favorite restaurant in Orange County. Housed in a gorgeous old building that used to be a bank (really!), this restaurant delights patrons with a varied American/fusion-style menu.

Albany County:
Jack’s Oyster House
Albany. 518-465-8854;
www.jacksoysterhouse.com

Columbia County:
Mexican Radio
Hudson. 518-828-7770; www.mexrad.com

Dutchess County:
Terrapin Restaurant
Rhinebeck. 845-876-3330;
www.terrapinrestaurant.com

Greene County:
Bistro Brie and Bordeaux
Windham. 518-734-4911;
www.bistrobrieandbordeaux.com

Orange County:
The River Bank
Cornwall-on-Hudson. 845-534-3046;
www.theriverbank.biz

Putnam County:
Riverview
Cold Spring. 845-265-4778;
www.riverdining.com

Rensselaer County:
Arlington House
West Sand Lake
Housed in a former 19th-century hotel, this restaurant and bar offers American cuisine with a delicious twist. The menu changes with the season, but diners can always find a wide selection of tasty salads and soups, a variety of specially cooked seafood (parsnip-encrusted salmon, anyone?), and steak, duck and game seasoned and cooked to perfection. The restaurant also offers an array of gourmet pizzas, including its unique peanut butter Thai shrimp concoction.
518-674-1880; www.thearlingtonhouse.com

Rockland County:
Xaviar’s
Piermont. 845-359-7007; www.xaviars.com

Ulster County:
Ship Lantern Inn
Milton. 845-795-5400; www.shiplanterninn.com

Westchester County:
Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Pocantico Hills. 914-366-9600;
www.bluehillfarm.com/food/blue-hill-stone-barns

Readers' Picks: Food

Appetizers:
Terrapin Restaurant
Rhinebeck. 845-876-3330;
www.terrapinrestaurant.com

Bagel:
New Paltz Bagel Café
New Paltz. 845-255-4594

Bread:
Bread Alone
Boiceville. 845-657-3328;
www.breadalone.com

Buffalo Wings:
McGillicuddy’s Restaurant & Tap House
New Paltz. 845-256-9289;
www.cuddysny.com

Burger:
Red Brick Tavern
Rosendale. 845-658-8500;
www.redbrickrosendale.com

Chili:
Andy’s Place
Poughkeepsie. 845-452-2525;
www.gotoandysplace.com

Chocolate Treat (tie):
Alps Sweet Shop
Beacon. 845-831-8240;
www.alpssweetshop.com
Krause’s Chocolates
Saugerties. 845-246-8377;
www.krauseschocolates.com

Cup of Coffee/Latte:
Crafted Kup
Poughkeepsie. 845-483-7070;
www.craftedkup.com

Ice Cream:
Holy Cow
Red Hook. 845-758-5959

Pasta:
Casa Mia
Highland. 845-691-2923;
www.casamiagroup.com

Pizza:
La Bella Pizza Bistro
New Paltz. 845-255-2633;
www.labellapizzabistro.com

Sandwich:
Rossi’s Italian Deli
Poughkeepsie. 845-471-0654;
www.rossideli.com

Soup:
Crew
Poughkeepsie. 845-462-8900;
www.crewrestaurant.com

Takeout:
Main Course
New Paltz. 845-255-2600;
www.maincoursecatering.com

Tapas:
Elephant
Kingston. 845-339-9310;
www.elephantwinebar.com