Mushroom Hunting in the Hudson Valley: Why Mushroom Hunting is the Next Big Thing
Mushroom hunting is a growing trend; learn how to identify and find mushrooms in the Hudson Valley
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Giant Puffball mushroom (Calvatia gigantea)
Prime mushroom hunting season usually lasts from August to October, depending on rainfall. During this time, one can find a variety of the edible species that seem to be popping up on menus all over, including black trumpets, which have a savory flavor (great with pasta dishes); the highly sought-after golden chanterelle, whose buttery textures are attracting scores of chefs; and giant puffballs — those round, white ones you probably kicked for fun as a kid. These are edible when picked at the right age, and have an earthy, nutty flavor. “This summer was bad; we barely had any rain through July and didn’t see many pop up. They thrive after there’s been rain,” Brill says. “If the weather’s good, this season we can also expect to find hen of the woods, chicken mushrooms, black-staining polypores, and shaggy manes.”
Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus sulphureus)
While it’s becoming almost trendy for the average food enthusiast to hunt mushrooms these days, naturalists believe that gatherers should respect the land by not taking more mushrooms than they can use. Others, however, will hunt for bulk quantities to sell at farm markets or to local restaurants. Woodstock’s Oriole 9 is committed to using local products, which includes a variety of mushrooms they purchased from foragers, such as trumpets, hen of the woods, morels, chicken of the woods, and chanterelles. “The people that forage for us are specialists,” says owner Luc Moeys. “We do not just accept any mushrooms.” Though he won’t say where in the Valley the mushrooms come from (“the secrets lie with the foragers”), they can be found on the restaurant’s menu, in dishes such as hen of the woods omelets; trivoli pasta with sautéed trumpets, white wine, garlic cream, and parsley; and mushroom pâté with house-made pickles and orange mustard. A Tavola Trattoria, a new restaurant in New Paltz, was recently touting an upcoming special on their Facebook page: goat cheese tortelli with locally foraged chanterelles.
Some environmentalists have voiced concern about damage from foragers, suggesting that excessive foraging is ruining the landscape. “I’ve been doing this for a long time and haven’t seen much damage. Things like extreme heat, flooding, or pollution affect mushrooms more than foragers,” Brill explains. “A mushroom is really the fruit of the fungus. Even if you pick a mushroom, the fungus is still in the ground. It’s like pulling an apple off a tree. The tree’s still there when the fruit has been removed; it’s not hurting the environment.” And eventually it will grow back, continuing its cycle, perhaps to be foraged again.
» Edible vs. poisonous mushrooms: What to look for (photo gallery)
» Mushroom recipe: Cooking with chanterelle mushrooms
» Foraging essentials: What you need before you go mushroom hunting
» Meet Wildman Steve Brill and the mushroom people (mycologists)
» Return to main story: Hunting for Mushrooms